Like Gaul, this trail is divided into three parts. At least for me it was; I’ll explain why elsewhere. These are: The first 500km, a pause , then the second 500km.
Your resupply needs will depend on your hiking style. I’m assuming that generally speaking Through Hikers are self-sufficient and low budget, thus cooking for themselves almost all the time. In this area my response to the notes was often “So what - now tell me something I want to know”.
Additionally, I was very rarely breaking at the Section ends. Indeed I deliberately avoided this, preferring to stop short, camp and then arrive early in the morning, shop (if possible) and then get out as quickly as possible.
First half
Essentially resupplying in the first 500km is pretty straightforward. There are decent supermarkets often enough (depending on your consumption and needs) to provide everything on a regular (3-4 days maximum) basis.
Generally I looked for these in my GPS (see notes on GPS) about 20km ahead and planned accordingly. In the south the towns are near or on the route and are mostly big enough to have one or two supermarkets of sufficient size.
The only exception to this was fuel, which I found to be more difficult that I had anticipated.
For example Melrose, a town which the Trail Notes say has “all facilities”, had no gas canisters and I was obliged to buy Surgical Spirit from the Chemists to use in my alcohol stove (see Gear).
Second half
In the latter half of the trail I planned ahead a little more carefully and carried more food. I was consuming more and resupplying less frequently.
Summary
These are the places I used after the half-way point.
Inverness - Big Tesco
- I was off track for my convalescence.
- Do not miss Velocity cafe in Crown. My favourite!
Kingussie - Small Co-Op - on track.
- The Teapot cafe nearby is run by nice Spanish couple.
Fort Augustus - two small supermarkets - near track.
- These combine not very good with rather expensive.
Kyle of Lochalsh - Big Co-Op. 40km off track near Skye. Excellent. No fuel.
- From Cluanie Inn I hitched to Kyle and back in 3 hours.
- Avoid the shop in Shiel Bridge. I am told it is both poor, unreliable and expensive.
Ullapool - Tesco - not far from YHA
- Good selection.
- I easily hitched the 12Km off track from Inverlael.
- A unique opportunity to have a night in the YHA and do some laundry and take a shower.
Kinlochewe - Small shop near track
- OK for an expensive top-up.
- Unannounced he changed its opening hours while we were first there, so that it was closed when we returned from the nearby cafe. Unhelpful.
Just before Kinlochbervie - Small shop beside road
- OK but expensive.
- Open very late and I only stopped in by chance.
- Useful little top-up that made the last couple of days easier.
The mission critical places are Kyle and Ullapool.
The Gallery Cafe in Ullapool has both wifi and power. Coffee passable.
